Men's Cotehardies and Sideless Surcoats Pattern

Men's Cotehardies and Sideless Surcoats Pattern

Sewing Pattern - Men'sCotehardies were worn by both sexes of all ages and classes for over 200 years, from England to Bohemia, Norway to Spain. While there were variations, the cut of the cotehardie was the same in Europe. Originally a version of the tunic (PP16), cotehardies differed in sleeve cut, variations, and tailor fit. Woman's were fitted or even tight to the hips, then flared to the hem. They often had long tight sleeves. They would be worn over a chemise (PP90). Men's cotehardies, worn long or short, were initially tight to the hips, with long tight sleeves. They were worn over a shirt (PP43) and hose (PP101), often with hoods. During 1st half of the 14th c. a major change occurred. With the invention of curved sleeve caps. Puffed chests and full sleeves became fashionable on men's cotehardies by 1350. Sleeveless tunics or surcoats were worn by both sexes as early as the 12th c., but with the return of crusaders from the Holy Land the style became wildly popular. The armholes deepened to the waist, then (particularly on woman's surcoats) to the hip, earning the name "sideless surcoats". These worn by women over very tight cotehardies, roused the ire of the church because their revealing cut was considered too seductive -the clergy dubbed these "the Gates of Hell". Surcoats and cotehardies for both sexes could be plain and somber, or wildly colorful. Heraldic motifs were common on these garments. Both sexes began wearing houpelandes (PP26) over a cotehardie after 1380. Cotehardies and surcoats as outerwear became unfashionable before 1425, with one exception. Cotehardies, with or without sideless surcoats, remained fashionable for women, as regal ceremonial garments, until well into the 16th century. When the houpelande went out of fashion, the cotehardie for women re-emerged as the kirtle (PP51). Men's cotehardies had meanwhile evolved into the doublet (PP43 & PP53).
Country USA
Brand Period Patterns
Binding Kitchen
ItemPartNumber PP23
Model 4337011443
Color White
ReleaseDate 0000-00-00

Country	USA
Brand	Period Patterns
Binding	Kitchen
ItemPartNumber	PP23
Model	4337011443
Color	White
ReleaseDate	0000-00-00

Men's Cotehardies and Sideless Surcoats Pattern

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