By World War II, cheese production in Wales had nearly ceased; run out of business by large cheesemaking factories in England. Fortunately for us, there has been a revival of old ways by a new generation of cheesemakers. They have saved Caerphilly (the only traditional Welsh cheese made today) from the factory-made processed form it had become in England, and returned it to its original farmhouse character. Now, they are creating other fine cheeses such as Red Dragon, also known as Y-Fenni. This smooth, firm, tasty cheddar is made with Welsh brown ale and mustard seeds. Red Dragon is a buttery and spicy cheese with plenty of bite, but is not too hot. Not only do the mustard seeds give Red Dragon its marvelous flavor, but also its texture. The brown ale makes the cheese moist and tangy. Red Dragon is aged for three months, made from cow's milk, and is vegetarian. Serve as a table cheese or melted on toast with dark ale or try a Shiraz, if you prefer wine.